DIY Aerosol Sprayer - DIY Spray Paint : 8 Steps - khangwartan

Introduction: DIY Aerosol Sprayer - DIY Spray Paint

This is a great way to create your ain home made foaming aerosol cleaning products, atomizer rouge, spraying oil, etc. Instead of exploitation compressed air as a propellant, this sprayer uses butane, propane, or shoot a line smock i.e. Dust-Off as the propelling. These sprayers are pressurised and sprayed from unmatchable valve. They are retentive-imperishable and provide ordered pressure from full to empty without having to comprise rhenium-pressurized. This project grew knocked out of attempts to better on the instructable DIY Spray Blusher.

Check unfashionable the following telecasting demonstrations

Extra vestal olive oil DIY sprayer present

Get across dish grievous bodily harm DIY spray demo

Supplies

Tools

• a hacksaw
• 220 grit atomic number 14 carbide sandpaper (a-weight is champion).
• a couple of light wampum or two large ligature clips
• a drill or something to melt a hole in the feeding bottle cap (I old an old nut driver and a kitchen torch)

Materials

• empty atomizer can and nozzle.
  Select a prat that was originally filled with something analogous to what you will fill your spray with.
• vacate plastic soda bottle, 20 oz. or less
• plastic feeding bottle cap with a knife seal (See the picture of three different bottle caps).
• intermediate or thick Cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue). Preferably a rubber burnt nonpareil such as Starbond KEG-500
• Polyolefin fusee (important!) such every bit Loctite 770, 3M Scotch-Weld AC77, or Aron Alpha PP Primer
• California activator
• butane, gas duster (Dust-Soured), or a can of propane with a viridity gas adapter.
• Isopropanol or dimethyl ketone (for prep)
• a clean shop cloth etc. (for prep)
• A hulky diameter straw or some 1/2" (initial size up) heat shrink tubing

Fill Adapter Parts (for nebulizer cans with male valve stems)

• 1/4" ID PEX-B Pipe
• butane fill tips from the cap of the butane can

Step 1: The Valve

unblock any remaining pressure by Depressing the nozzle of the empty aerosol can, or use a inferior knife to laggard a small hole in the stern . Once whol of the pressure has left the can, use a hacksaw to cut the valve away of the crest of an aerosol potty.

notes:

Spray cans that contained water based products use an LDPE inner lining to protect the can against rust and other corrosion. Using cleaning products with a valve that does not have this lining leads to corroding and bond loser. If you plan on exploitation water based products in your sprayer the make in for to that the underside of the valve has a bony stratum of plastic lining.

Step 2: Getting Everything Ready to Prime and Glue

1. Sand the top of the bottlecap and the penetrate of the valve.

Billet: Many of the aerosol cans have a plastic lining on the wrong. This prevents the metal from corroding. Sand, but do non absent the plastic facing from the bottom of the valve.

2. George Sand on the inside of the knife cachet. get in every facet. I use high upper-class flexible 3M 220 gritrock Silicon Carbide. Get ahead to the hardware memory boar and pick out a a couple of pieces of thin and whippy emery paper (A-weight wallpaper).

3. Uninfected the bottlecap/valve (detonating device-valve) with isopropyl intoxicant or dimethyl ketone, and a clean cloth.

3. Make a hole in the center of the bottlecap — a hair smaller than the diameter of the spout on the bottom of the valve. I the likes of to melt the hole with with a violent creature like an old nut driver. Ideally, the spout should fit snugly inside the hole without distorting the shape of the cap .

4. when the valve has holes where you can see exposed springs etc. Use either heat recoil tubing or a wide straw to choke up the holes (see picture). Lubricate the straw with a few drops of rubbing alcohol or other antiseptic drying lubricant and force it over the holes on the valve. (insure picture). After the valve-cap is amassed you can buoy slue down this shield to the gum job for better flow, and to allow any fish spraying.

notes:

If you do non guts the parts your sprayer will (in all likelihood) fall apart!

It is important to audit the valve for holes at the summit above the nonpareil for the spout (see picture). some Rustoleum cans have valves like this with a metal ball in the valve that blocks propellant gas from either the holes or the spurt depending happening the spray angle. these valves allow you to spray at any Angle. If the holes are not partially blocked the exclusive works of the valve will fill with the glue and ruin the valve.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Practice polyolefin primer to the top of the bottleful cap
2. Prime the plastic lining and any other plastic parts connected the nates of the valve
3. fill out the well along the bottom of the valve with CA Glue, enough to fill the gapbetween the valve and bottlecap when they are together.
4. holding the valve spout pointing up, slide the cap onto the gush of the valve and the puddle of CA.
   • If you got the mess size to a T, you may non need to clamp 🎉!
5. clamp the valve and the bottlecap.
   • clamp lightly, try to not distort the shape of the bottlecap.

CA gum forms a stronger - more flexible bond - if it cures naturally, so wait 15-20 minutes, and then Spray the clamped valve-detonating device with CA Accelerator to cure any of the remaining unseasoned glue. Postponemen some other deuce minutes and so remove the clamp.

Notes:

If you do non use polyolefin primer your sprayer will not be able to manage the pressure and will pin apart promptly!
The flat coat is of flower grandness!

bottle caps are made of either polypropylene (PP) or polythene (specifically HDPE). Almost all bottle caps successful for carbonated beverages are made of HDPE. polyolefin plastics are notoriously defiant to bond due to their low surface energy and resistance to even the strongest organic solvents like acetone operating theatre xylol. Polyolefin primer in combination with CA glue allows for rattling high bond strengths when gluing polyolefins like PP, HDPE, and Teflon (PTFE).

the HDPE bottle chapiter is spinnbar and deforms under pressure, so IT is preferable to use a synthetic rubber toughened California paste for this footstep. Rubber toughened formulations of CA glue have superior shock electrical resistance, flexibility, and shear strength. The downside is a reduction in stress strength and hardness as compared to unadulterated CA. Most rubber toughened CA gum formulations tend to not state that fact. The ones that do mention it tend to be artificial black. Just look to a steel that includes the word "flexible" in the entitle. I have had good feel with the Starbond KEG-500 mucilage formulation.

A word of caution. Some Calif. formulations sacrifice strength for added flexibility, such as Gorilla gorilla brand Super Glue. I discouraged you from using these verities. Starbond is a solid well-adjusted choice.

DO NOT Stand in CA GLUE/PRIMER FOR ANY OTHER GLUE.

Adhesives Tested:

• Silicones: absorb propellants/solvents and swell, leading to bond failure
• 2-start epoxies: will not bond pp operating room pe
• Two-part acrylics. these are oftentimes labeled "epoxy" even though they are technically not epoxies and are indicated for plastics. they tend to be opaque and put off a pungent smell (unlike true epoxy resin). these dissolve in the solvents and broadly speaking doh not work on PP or PE anyway.
• Hot glue (both EVA and polyamide formulations). At high enough temperatures (≈400℉) raging melt adhesives (aka sexy glue sticks) work very well on polyolefins and ones with a high ethylene monomer content work excellently happening some PP and PE. deplorably, their flexibility alone is to great and result in chemical bond failure under the high pressure pressures of the sprayer. regardless, their resistance to solvents precludes there purpose because they are not made of uncontaminated PE.

• I have not tested any of them, but my research indicates that there are cardinal voice acrylic resin structural adhesives that would structurally outperform CA paste in the long haul. but, arsenic with all acrylics, they do not have the chemical immunity necessary and are very pricey.

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• Test the clamps on the valve-cap before you utilise them. if you cannot find clamps that holds the parts together in proper alignment then you buns usance two jumbo ring-binder clips, although these tend to wring the shape of the ceiling.
• Loctite 770 Polyolefin primer glows under UV light. In that case, you can use a UV flashlight to ensure everything is primed. This leave also expose spots you incomprehensible while sanding.

Step 4: Forming the Fillet

Forming the Stopping:

1. position the glued valve-cap upside-down .
2. Apply the Polyolefin primer to the inside of the knife seal, the liner and any past plastic on the valve.
3. Take the inside of the tongue seal with Calcium glue in layers. For the first-year layer wait 5-10 minuets and utilise CA activator. Wait for that bed to cure. Extra layers and activator can be applied Thomas More rapidly.
4. always time lag for the previous layer to fully cure before adding other.

• Do not let the glue get outside of the tongue seal, where it bequeath could via media the threads of the cap and the seal that the cap makes with the feeding bottle.
• Hold Calcium activator from a distance of 1 foot. from the fillet to prevent the glue from solidifying too quickly.

Notes:

• I expect in front curing the first layer of the tenia in order to have it clock time to fill any gaps that may have defined in gluing the valve-cap together in the last tread.
• the fish filet seals the glue joint away from the atomizer table of contents to keep compromising the valve-cap bond.
• The fish filet reinforces the ceiling, so it can handle the high pressure of the propelling without failing.
• the cured CA glue is exceedingly rigid as compared to the bottlecap. without the taenia, the gamy insistence of the propellant (especially propane) can deform the detonating device and surpass the flexibility of the Golden State glue, leading to failure.
• Plain CA glue (nearly consummate ethyl radical-cyanoacrylate e.g. Krazy Glue) is fine for this step because we are not disturbed about tractableness or shock resistance.
• A gurgle may form in the over fillet. Bubbles in the fillet do not seem to cause any problems.

Step 5: Transcriber Fabrication (For a Manly Valve Stem)

In fiat to fill the finished sprayer with a stem (antheral) you need to pee-pee a stem-to-stem adapter. The adaptor lets you supercharge the spray with propelling.

Stairs:

1. Select a couple of butane tips that seat considerably on some the sprayer valve stem and the canister of gas.
2. Bring down off a 1-1.5" inch tack together of 1/4" ID PEX-B pipe
3. picnic the butane tip into the ends of the piece of pipe

Notes:

• the adapter can be used to transfer the contents betwixt aerosol cans OR to add pressure to an existing aerosol rear.
• If you use different materials, It is important to live selective nigh the tube. Acrylic was too stiff and HDPE was too flexible. After overmuch experimentation with designs for an adapter, I stumbled upon 1/4" ID PEX-B pipe and got IT because I liked information technology. The butane tips snapped suitable in like magic!.

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My premiere attempts involved softening a section of 1/8" ID acrylic tubing with a heated up steel rod . The old adapter design was a big shortcoming for this project.

Step 6: Pressurizing and Propellant Selection

to pressurize the sprayer you can use:

• Butane
• propane with a putting green gas adapter
• Gasoline gaberdine (dust-off) with the the top side removed

place the filled sprayer on a flavorless surface.

For Female Valve:

1. Select a tip from the cap on the butane that fits inside the valve on the cap and exam it with the can of propellant to hold sure that it opens the valve and gasoline runs through. Also make a point that seals asymptomatic with the valve and that it doesn't spew gas where the tip and valve meet.
2. fill a soda bottleful with your chosen contents.
3. screw the valve-cap snugly onto the bottle.
4. place the fitting tip along the dynamical
5. Invert the propellant
6. insert the tip in the sprayer valve and pressurize away pressing down connected the propellant as you would refill a lighter.

For Male Valve :

1. fill a soda feeding bottle with your selected contents.
2. screw the valve-cap snugly onto the bottle.
3. put the through take adapter connected the can of gasconad.
4. while bearing the adapter and posterior, depress happening the propellant can. Exist careful to implement pressure sensation directly descending, and then that the bum does not slip and break the fill adapter or the stem on the atomizer.

To avert the table of contents from backwashing into the canful spell pressurizing, either place the sprayer in the fridge or run the can of gas nether warm body of water while shaking it for several seconds. the early feels like a safer option.

Do non depressurize away untwisting the capital. Depressurize using the spray nozzle. IT is safer and does non pose a risk of damaging the threads.

Propellant Natural selection:

Irrigate founded Cleaning products work first with butane. do non use spray paint nozzles with water based products, they testament never spray the discipline pattern.

If you are interested in applying coatings like paint, then you lack to use propane. Propane is key to a good coat of spray rouge because IT provides high and evaporates away before the key starts to dry, eliminating bubbles in the finished key. Thin the paint with xylol Beaver State naphtha. Coiffe not use acetone, CA Glue is disintegrable in acetone!

Cookery oil with propane is a stash awa-shelf model cooking spray, just it requires a lot of propane because propane is answerable in the oil. I speculate that thither is no fashio more or less this, sol the store bought spray oil credibly contains atomic number 3 much propane.

If the sprayer drizzles then add to a greater extent dynamic. For example, Cooking oil, oil based paints or other oily substances whitethorn require a good deal of propellent A compared to piss based substances. Umpteen paint nozzles have atomizers that only produce the correct nebulizer convention (aerosolize) when thither is an abundance of propellant.

► These are the kinds of pressures you can have a bun in the oven for the three propellant options

vapour pressures:

Butane:

• 31 psi@70 ° F
• 52 pounds per square inch@100 ° F

Propane:

• 125 psi@70 ° F
• 190 psi@100 ° F

Gas duster (Difluoroethane)

• 77 pounds per square inch@70 ° F
• 124 pounds per square inch@100 ° F

Notes:

• valve-caps broadly have a polysyllabic lifespan when pressurized with butane. butane is preferable for making foaming cleaning products.
• Propane provides the greatest pressing and is recommended for paint, for cooking oil, other substances that are miscible with propane and butane.It is the cheapest pick. But!
  • Propane is the almost dodgy option. Bottles May form cracks and bottlecap threads may fail. See (Dealing With Failure)
• Gas duster is the cleanest, the pop bottle handles the pressure wellspring, but it is the most expensive of the three.
• You can combine propellants sole from lowest to highest vapor pressure. you can add propane to butane but not vice versa.
• Pressurizing paint with butane tends to cause bubbles to form in the done paint. The gas does non evaporate quickly enough.
• Use oil supported paints.
• Propane may cause slight separation finished fourth dimension operating room with elevated temperatures. (see §Dealing With Failure)

• Usually the first part to neglect is the bottle. you should only use the same nursing bottle one sentence.
  the first percentage of the valve-cap that fails are the threads on the nursing bottle cap but, as long as you respect the bottle cap threads and adequately tighten the valve-crest to the bottleful you should not deliver any problems in the long course

Step 7: Dealing With Failure

Possible Problems

• Threads not meshing with nursing bottle correctly:iron out down as you tighten the valve-cap. Forever make a point the cap is sozzled (within reason).
• Clogging &ere; reduced flow: flush out the clog with a fast burst of propellent.
• Backwashing from atomizer into propellent: refrigerate sprayer Beaver State run propellent under wanted water earlier filling
• Separation of valve and cap:
  1. Arrange not absent the ceiling from the pressurized sprayer.
  2. Apply some polyolefin primer into the crack.
  3. fill the crack with sensitive or scraggy ca glue - taper it into the fracture.
• Deterioration of the fillet: Add some other stratum of Atomic number 20 glue to the fillet.

Testing the valve-pileus:

1. Love valve-detonator onto an empty feeding bottle or matchless filled with water.
2. Supercharge the sprayer until a bit liquid gas corset at the bottom of the bottle (it reaches vapor pressure).
3. Set it aside for a hebdomad surgery so.

Important safety information:

• if the bottle doesn't leak, but you see diminutive cracks in the top of the soda bottle, throw the nursing bottle away.
• If the bottlecap begins to gibbosity on the sides to the tip of leaking, throw the valve-chapiter away.
• Some Cleaning products English hawthorn effort the fillet to deteriorate over time. Screen a drop of cured CA glue in the dry cleaner you want to use before filling the nebulise with it.
• never use anything containing acetone in the sprayer

Step 8: Nebulise Paint Notes

It has been awhile since I have full one of these with paint. The first time I tried and true a water based latex paint. The results were depressing. the blusher dried with a crowd of bubbles where the evaporating butane got trapped under curing key. I was more interested in plasti-dip and got amazing results with propane.

Plasti-dip:

• Buy clear plasti-inclination and add the color yourself. Tap Plastics sells lightproof pigments that bring off a great looking coat.
• Pressurize with propane or
• butane and then propane or
• dust-off

Oil founded:

• Only thin with xylene (best option), naphtha, Oregon inorganic spirits,
• only role nebulizer paint nozzles
• Before adding more flatulency, put the sprayer in the freezer for a half hour.
• Wait for IT to warm up before you test the pattern.
• Protect the green gas adapter from paint by wrapping it in a cloth while you fill
• Come non engross the sprayer valve before the propane valve Oregon paint fire get everywhere.
• Use a lot of propane for the the correct spray pattern. (see to it pictures)

For completely of the pictures above I used flat white rust-oleum oil founded protective enamel. I used the cutting instruction on an patched prevel sprayer box. I used xylene to thin.

Vulnerable Questions

• Next time I will weigh it ahead and after pressurization sol I terminate give some advise about how very much propane is top

• I have not tried it without thinner, but you whitethorn non need to thin the least bit because the propane itself is so soluble in the paint.

• using a straw to block the holes of an "any angle" valve is crude, possibly heat shrink tubing cut subsequently shrinking to the height of the lip seal would allow whatsoever angle spray aside only blocking the holes slightly.

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Source: https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Aerosol-SprayerDIY-Spray-Paint/

Posted by: khangwartan.blogspot.com

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